It took the absurdity of the keto diet to realise how bonkers and disordered my relationship with food had become

Like a lot of people, I have been locked into a battle with my body for as long as I can remember. I was about six the first time it was pointed out to me that my thighs were fat, which I knew, even at that age, was supposedly the very worst thing you could be. I don’t remember the exact origins of this conviction and I sense it probably wasn’t any one thing, but more simply, the blizzard of fat-phobic messaging we were living with in the 1990s.

eroin chic was a thing, as was the Special K diet. Every woman in my life seemed despairing of their perfectly ordinary, lovely bodies. Weight Watchers, Slimming World, the cabbage soup diet, the Atkins diet and the Dukan diet all got more conversational airtime than the far more important and more interesting things that were happening.

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